February 07, 2012

Super Toner

This toner is packed with everything I had on hand...  Witch hazel and lavender to soothe and calm the skin, lots of extracts and a dose of AHA to boot.

I like to use this at night, as it does leave a slight barrier on the skin (due to the allantoin).  The extracts might have been a bit too much, as I noticed the solids kinda started to settle in the bottom.  I just shake, shake, shake and then use.  It's a deep colour but doesn't leave any on your face or pillow in my experience so far.

The extra boost of AHA (Lactic Acid) and Multifruit BSC (another AHA from fruit acids) have left my skin very soft and smooth.  I noticed a difference after one night.  This might be too harsh for some skin types, so beware that this toner is pretty heavily packed.  You might want to start with just one extract and see where it takes you, or leave out the AHA till you know how you will react.

Super Toner
I wouldn't say all skin types- mine is slightly oily, sensitive, aging (30+) and acne prone.  
I doubled the % and ended up with two 3oz spritzer bottles.


Heated Phase:
11.5% Water (23g)
30% Witch Hazel (hydrosol, no alcohol) (60g)
25% Lavender Hydrosol (50g)
10% Aloe Vera Gel (20g)
2% Sodium Lactate (4g)
2% Cromoist Hydrolyzed Oat Proteins (4g)
0.5% Allantoin powder (1g)

Cool Phase:
5% Multifruit BSC (10g) - You could cut this in half if you're sensitive.
3% Acai Botanical - liquid (6g) -This is what gave it a darker colour.
2% AHA Lactic Acid (4g)
2% Panthenol (4g)
3% Honeyquat (6g)
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus (1g)
Extracts- each of these measured out and added to the liquids, mixed and mixed until dissolved.
Chamomile Powdered Extract (1/8 tsp)
Cucumber Powdered Extract (1/8 tsp)
Green Tea Powdered Extract (1/8 tsp)
Honeysuckle Powdered Extract (1/4 tsp)

Warm the heated phase in a double boiler until it reaches 70*C and hold it there for 20 minutes.  I wouldn't let it get much hotter than this.  Once finished, double check the weight, and top up with hot water (boiled separately) as needed.  What I like to do is put all of my heated phase ingredients in a pyrex measuring cup together, except my water.  I boil my water separately and once the 20 minutes has been reached I put my cup back onto the scale, set to zero, and add the appropriate amount of hot water.  This way you never have to worry about evaporation.

I like this toner a lot, and have been using it for over a week now.  It has definitely helped with turning over new skin on a few problem areas on my face including a few pimples.  It helped to dry them out and took the redness down (thanks to the lavender I think).

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