Kokum Butter Eye/Face Cream

Lovely, but not as thick as I had hoped.  Light, but slightly greasier than my other lotions.  It could be packaged in a pump or a jar if you're not tossing it in a purse or bag.  Kokum butter is apparently non-comedogenic so it's safe to use on the face.  It definitely adds a slightly greasier feel than I am used to, but I usually use oil free, or very light lotions on my face.  This is not a bad thing- by any means.  Dryer skinned people will certainly like it better than oily skinned.  I am certainly still using it, and liking it although I use a little powder on my face to make up for the extra oil.  Next batch I would probably use BTMS-50 as my emulsifyer, and just skip the Multifruit BSC as they do not work well together.  That alone may completely change the texture of this cream/lotion.  I would also up the Cetyl alcohol by just a tad- to make a real cream texture that would stay in a jar properly.

Kokum Butter Face/Eye Cream

For dryer-skinned people
I x'd the percentages by 3 and it yielded about 9ish oz

Heated Water Phase:
34.5% Water (103.5g)
20% Aloe Vera (60g)
15% Rose Hydrosol- you can use any here (45g)
2% Sodium Lactate (6g)
2% Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (6g)

Heated Oil Phase:
4% Jojoba Oil (12g)
4% Macadamia Oil (12g)
2% Kokum Butter (6g)
4% Polawax (12g)
3% Cetyl Alcohol (9g)

Cool Phase:
2% Panthenol (6g)
5% Multifruit BSC, Natural AHA (15g)
3% Acai Liquid Extract (9g)
3% Honeyquat (9g)
0.5% Green Tea powdered extract (1.5g)
0.5% Cucumber powdered extract (1.5g)
0.5% Liquid Germall Plus (1.5g)
And about 15 drops of grapefruit essential oil.

Very light smell- slightly nutty, slightly grapefruit.  Off-white shade of cream that melts into skin.  I'll post more about it as I use it more.

*Update Feb. 7*
I have been using this for eye cream, not all over my face.  And I'm really liking it.  A little goes a long way, but it helps under eye concealer go on more smoothly.  Feels nice.  Overall, better than my initial thoughts on it.

Mild AHA Lotion w/ Extracts

I wanted to create a face lotion with a bit of AHA in it.  For this recipe, I started out very mild.  Next time I will definitely go higher- probably more like 5% of the Multifruit BSC.  The goal for this lotion was to have something very very light- something that would sink right into the skin without leaving any greasiness or waxy feeling behind.  Normally my choice for an emulsifier would be BTMS-50 as it is drier feeling and almost powdery in finish.  BUT Multifruit BSC doesn't work well with this emulsifier so I had to go the route of Polawax.  Much to my surprise (due to my lack of experience) the Polawax did not impart any waxy feeling at all to this lotion.  In fact, it sinks in even better than the Sea Buckthorn lotion I previously posted.
All in all, I am a very happy camper with this lotion.  Next batch can only get better!


Face Lotion for Aging Acne Prone Skin
Water Phase:
144g water (48%)
545g aloe gel (15%)
45g neroli hydrosol (15%)
10g sodium lactate - humectant (2%)
10g cromoist hydrolyzed oat protein (2%)


Oil Phase:
12g Jojoba (4%)
6g Sea Buckthorn (2%)
6g Macadamia (2%)
12g Polawax (4%)
3g Cetyl Alcohol (1%)
1 pipette Vitamin E Oil


Cool Phase:
6g Panthenol (2%)
1 tsp honeysuckle powder (0.5%)
9g Multifruit BSC (Natural AHA) (3%)
6g Acai Botanical Extract (2%)
2 pipettes Liquid Germall Plus (about 2g or 0.75% which is a teeny bit high)
3 drops Jasmine EO - very mild scent


Yield about 16 ounces.  WONDERFUL texture.  Pale yellow colour with just a hint of mild fragrance.  It soaks in and leaves skin very soft.  Next time I am double the Multifruit BSC for a little more AHA power.  This would work well with any type of hydrosol as well.  I have been using this everyday for a week and I am really loving it.

Seabuckthorn & Extracts

Face Lotion for Most Skin Types (except very dry)


Water Phase:
240g water (48%)
50g aloe gel (15%)
25g neroli hydrosol (7.5%)
25g lavender hydrosol (7.5%)
10g sodium lactate - humectant (2%)
10g cromoist hydrolyzed oat protein (2%)


Oil Phase:
20g sunflower oil (4%)
20g jojoba (4%)
10g seabuckthorn (2%)
20g BTMS-50 emulsifyer (4%)
10g cetyl alcohol - thickener (2%)


Cool Phase:
10g Panthenol (2%)
1tsp Chamomile powdered extract (0.5%)
1.5tsp Honeysuckle powdered extract (0.5%)
2.5g Liquid Germall Plus - preservative (0.5-1%)


Pale yellow, smells slightly herbal.  Silky smooth, non greasy, suitable for all skin types except very dry.  Thicker texture than I expected- could be adjusted with the amount of cetyl alcohol (more for a cream, less for more liquidy).