Mild AHA Lotion w/ Extracts

I wanted to create a face lotion with a bit of AHA in it.  For this recipe, I started out very mild.  Next time I will definitely go higher- probably more like 5% of the Multifruit BSC.  The goal for this lotion was to have something very very light- something that would sink right into the skin without leaving any greasiness or waxy feeling behind.  Normally my choice for an emulsifier would be BTMS-50 as it is drier feeling and almost powdery in finish.  BUT Multifruit BSC doesn't work well with this emulsifier so I had to go the route of Polawax.  Much to my surprise (due to my lack of experience) the Polawax did not impart any waxy feeling at all to this lotion.  In fact, it sinks in even better than the Sea Buckthorn lotion I previously posted.
All in all, I am a very happy camper with this lotion.  Next batch can only get better!


Face Lotion for Aging Acne Prone Skin
Water Phase:
144g water (48%)
545g aloe gel (15%)
45g neroli hydrosol (15%)
10g sodium lactate - humectant (2%)
10g cromoist hydrolyzed oat protein (2%)


Oil Phase:
12g Jojoba (4%)
6g Sea Buckthorn (2%)
6g Macadamia (2%)
12g Polawax (4%)
3g Cetyl Alcohol (1%)
1 pipette Vitamin E Oil


Cool Phase:
6g Panthenol (2%)
1 tsp honeysuckle powder (0.5%)
9g Multifruit BSC (Natural AHA) (3%)
6g Acai Botanical Extract (2%)
2 pipettes Liquid Germall Plus (about 2g or 0.75% which is a teeny bit high)
3 drops Jasmine EO - very mild scent


Yield about 16 ounces.  WONDERFUL texture.  Pale yellow colour with just a hint of mild fragrance.  It soaks in and leaves skin very soft.  Next time I am double the Multifruit BSC for a little more AHA power.  This would work well with any type of hydrosol as well.  I have been using this everyday for a week and I am really loving it.